From Courts to Couture: A Brief History of Fashion in Tennis
When tennis pros walk out onto the stadium courts under the bright, shining lights, it feels like they’re stepping onto a literal runway.
Tennis has exploded over the past few years, and America has definitely found its own special way to capitalize on it. For my NYC residents—can we talk about the subway right now? It’s covered in US Open ads. But critiques aside (because I secretly love the ads), there are also beautiful things that have emerged from tennis’s growing presence in our day-to-day lives—namely fashion and creative expression. In recent years, tennis has become increasingly prominent in the media (e.g., Law Roach’s 2024 press tour styling of Zendaya for Challengers). Law Roach never ceases to take old-money/luxury/black excellence to a whole new level and over a year later I still go back to it.
Media and entertainment aside, tennis remains a sport with a high barrier to entry. At the end of the day, it’s a game that requires access. As a result, fashion trends have embraced the preppy, court-inspired aesthetic with open arms. The past few years have been marked by the return of pleated mini skirts, bloomers, cable-knit V-neck sweaters, and classic tennis colors like white, navy, and kelly green. So, for many of us, #tenniscore has become a way to engage with the sport—as spectators, if not players.
What was once a sport fiercely protected by the ironclad walls of the elite has evolved into a global phenomenon—thanks in part to the advent of the Open Era in 1968. This new era allowed all players, including both professionals and amateurs, to compete in Grand Slam tournaments. It shifted the atmosphere of the sport: rules became more flexible, players expressed themselves more boldly, and fashion designers eagerly began collaborating with tennis stars. The Open Era was the genesis of tennis as we know it today—an outlet for creativity, fashion, and even sustainability.
Let’s explore the evolution of tennis fashion across decades, and the women who smashed fashion boundaries while redefining the game.
Left: Tennis Outfit from the 1880s Right: Early 20th century tennis players
Where to begin…
In the late 19th century, the birth of tennis attire was inspired by “lawn dress-wear”—a term used to describe fashions worn during outdoor social gatherings. This specific style of dress was intended for afternoons spent playing croquet, leisurely garden strolls, lavish summer galas accompanied by full orchestras, and boozy picnics with cocktails flowing until sundown. I guess these were considered casual activities for the elite back in the day...
Inspired by lawn dresses, typical women’s tennis garb consisted of lengthy skirts with bustles, balloon-sleeved button-up blouses, wide-brimmed hats, and underneath it all… tightly bound corsets, petticoats, and heeled boots.
Essentially, the same attire used for those glamorous events was also worn as sportswear—mainly because sportswear didn’t yet exist as its own category of dress for women in the late 1800s. In many cases, women simply wore aprons over their clothing to protect it from grass and dirt during play. No performance fabrics back then—just good ol’ heavy satin, silk, and linen.
Unsurprisingly, performance was highly limited for female players during this era. The sport, like much of society at the time, was defined by decorum and restraint. But just a few decades later, all of this would gloriously begin to change...
1920s Tennis experienced its initial shift in the roaring 20s as hemlines shortened, sleeveless cardigans were introduced, and canvas shoes with rubber soles became popularized .. French tennis player, Suzanne Lenglen, fearlessly shocked the scene when she sported bare arms and a knee length skirt during Wimbledon. This was just one of many emblematic symbols contributing to liberation of women.
Suzanne Lenglen 1920 “showing skin”
1930s At a time where waistlines dropped, loose fitting polos and boxier silhouettes were embraced for better movement on the court, Ora Washington, known as the “Queen of Black Women’s Tennis,” was paving the courts for black tennis players that would follow in her footsteps.
Ora Washington (right) with tennis rival Lula Ballard (left) in 1939
1940s Gussie Moran, shocked the public with ingenious lace trim shorts designed by British Fashion Designer, Ted Tinling, worn under her tennis dress. A glimpse of an “undergarment” was considered revealing and scandalous at the time by the public. Regardless, Moran’s performance and movement greatly increased with the use of the shorts.
Gussie Moran at Wimbledon in 1949 wearing a tennis skirt revealing her lace knickers
1950s The 50s tennis fashions were somewhat predictable.. defined by ultra feminine dresses with cinched waists, pleats and high waisted short shorts. At a time where these silhouettes limited women’s roles in society… on May 26, 1956, at Roland-Garros, Althea Gibson became the first black player to win a Grand Slam tournament. Success!
Left: Tennis star, Althea Gibson Right: Tennis player Oakland, CA, 1950’s
1960s Mod came into play. Flirty embroidery, lace trims, flower motifs, scalloped hems, mini dresses, bows, gingham prints &… more!
Left: 1960s tennis dress with 1970s dagger collared cotton blouse layered underneath. Right: aqua 1960s top with center stripes and matching bows
(Styled by Vie en Vert)
1970s On the morning of September 20, 1973, Ted Tinling, was carefully adding last minute rhinestone embellishments to a white and royal blue polyester-knit dress in preparation for the Battle of the Sexes match. That night, at the Houston Astrodome, Billie Jean King took home victory against her male opponent.
During this time players adopted more casual styles, women wore t-shirts sporting logos and colors on uniforms were introduced.
Left: Cleavland Ohio Tennis player in the 70s Right: Billie Jean King's tennis dress for the Battle of the Sexes Match
1980s While career-driven women were adopting “power dressing” in the work force with broad shoulders and bold colors, the same was being done on the tennis court. Players sported bodysuits, bright neon colors, terrycloth sweatbands and oh yes.. leg warmers.
Left: Anne White in a lycra unitard in 1985 at Wimbledon Right: Zina Garrison became the first Black woman to reach a grand slam final since Althea Gibson.
1990s In the 90s, Venus and Serena Williams were entering the tennis scene. The sister duo was seen many times in whimsical matching sets, bright colors, beads and scrunchies.
Left: 11 year old Serena Williams in 1992 training in a 2 piece matching set Right: The Williams sisters at the US Open in 1999
2000s As Serena and Venus Williams became superstars in tennis they ignited fashion on the courts. Y2K brought on sexier silhouettes pulling inspiration from lingerie. Cropped tops, rhinestones, lace, pleats, trims, ruffles, studs galore! Also, I would be remiss not to mention corseted bodices (a little different from our 19th century corsets but lets say it’s a homage). Serena and Venus Williams paved so much of the way for tennis fashion today. Inventive, unapologetic and brilliant!
Left: Venus Williams wearing a lacy black and red dress at the French Open in 2010 Right: Serena in a biker style studded black pleated dress
Present Day: Today players are free to step on the court authentically (for the most part) and to embrace everything from shapes and colors that are oversized and loud to form fitting and neutral. Of course, there are still fashion bans as there are still dress code rules in place that players must follow (Wimbledon is still strict on the requirement that all players must wear white), but the rules are ever-changing, ebbing and flowing as our societal norms do. … The enthusiasm for innovative design in fashion that players bring to the court to express themselves makes an impression onto their fans and the rest of the world.
Top Left: Naomi Osaka in custom neon green outfit, designed by Yoon Ahn in 2024, complete with tiered ruffles and a giant green bow Top Right: New Balance colorway design made for Coco Gauff in 2024, with criss-cross mesh inserts at the waistline and a curved hem Bottom: Serena Williams at the US Open in 2018 wearing one shoulder tutu Off-White designer, Virgil Abloh in black and lavender
Left: Coco Gauff in New Balance featuring greyish-blues colorway swirling in a marble-like, abstract print for the 2025 US Open. Right: Naomi Osaka in Nike ruby red sequined cropped jacket paired with a bubble-hem skirt, rose-detailed hair accessories and bedazzled headphones for the 2025 US Open
The future of fashion in tennis looks bright. This 200 year-old sport has a complex and layered history, rooted in sexism, racism, and a longstanding desire to enforce social hierarchy. For years, tennis’ instilled classism hindered innovation and made it difficult for many to connect with a sport that, at its core, is deeply emotional through the stories it tells.
So I want to end by thanking all the women who put their sweat, tears and whole hearts into countless club rejections, public and private criticism, and endless rallying efforts for equality.
Because of them, tennis today represents grit, skill, and pure ability on the court—proving that fashion and freedom of expression in the sport will only continue to thrive.
Love tennis? Love fashion? Peruse these links.
https://www.thoughtco.com/top-african-american-women-in-tennis-45324
https://www.yhistory.org/blogs/ted-tinling-the-unforgettable-forgotten-designer-for
https://www.glamour.com/gallery/serena-williams-best-tennis-outfits-of-all-time
https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/zendaya-challengers-press-tour-every-look